Mold by Mold Market The BeginningsI started out making soaps
as Christmas gifts for the family (I got the idea from a friend who was doing
it that same year). I wanted these to be the best quality soaps ever, so I read
and researched ingredients on line and started ordering samples and testing colorants,
oils and fragrances. After nailing down quality ingredients I found myself laying
in bed at night thinking of various things that could be done to make the soaps
actually look as nice as they smelled, felt and performed. A New YearMarch
2007 marked the first anniversary since the official launch of PJ Soaps online
sales. We've come a long way and have a lot to learn and share. July through early
September 2007 marked "The Summer of Sammy"
(AKA The Prince of Sand Lake). Write me Karen! We at PJ Soaps regard and
approach the entire process of Soap Making as an art form. There are a few extremely
talented artists out there designing, sculpting and manufacturing soap molds for
soap makers of all kinds. But for the Melt and Pour soap makers like myself who
have most of the heavy duty work done for me before I even begin, I like to spend
my time on the fine details of the finished product -- it's just a matter of finding
the best soap bases, fragrances and molds and trying to do them justice. NoteworthyI'd
like to showcase two artists in particular Catherine Failor of Milky
Way Molds and Susan Nosacka of Precision
Craft (Also see Fine Art Molds
& the Mold Market Collection for
their beautiful work). I'd like to quickly say that virtually all soap molds used
by PJ Soaps can be found at www.brambleberry.com.
In addition, PJ Soaps uses only two kinds of Melt and Pour soap bases: Shea Butter
(white) and Shaving Soap (clear) both purchased directly from Bramble
Berry as well. The second thing to emphasize is that if you pour one
layer of warm soap onto a cooled layer of soap without first misting the surface
with rubbing alcohol, all your layers will fall apart, so please keep in mind
that before any layer of soap is added to another a light misting of rubbing alcohol
is sprayed on the surface of the cooled soap. Preparation My rule for approaching complicated molds
such as the cameo on the left is to find the lowest points in the mold and fill
those first to help control overflow of one color soap into another. So
I begin by pouring her Lemon Chiffon colored/scented dress and roses (using sculpting
tools to clean up any overflow after the soap has cooled and hardened). Then
heat and pour the sage colored/scented soap for the leaves (again clean up any
overflow after each step). I do the white gardenia Pearls and earring separately
at this stage, then the hair (again cleaning up overflow). Finally I'm ready for
the skin tone and scent of choice (I use the slightest whisper of sandalwood),
which will basically fill in any remaining depressions in the mold leaving only
the higher background/base to fill. All of the preceding colors and scents
should be considered before the process begins in order to complement the soaps
base color and scent (here I used a pale peach with a Summer Hill type fragrance).
I only use all natural pigments from minerals and clays to color my soaps this
has the disadvantage of limiting my color palette but the fantastic advantage
of being natural and non-bleeding and non-staining. AlternativesIf the above Cameo Mold is too much bother
for some here's another mold made by Milky Way is also available at Bramble Berry
which can be completed very elegantly in a matter of minutes. Carefully pour white
gardenia scented Shea Butter soap into the depressions of the heart, let them
cool and clean up any overflow. Then using the Shea butter base again just add
a blend of aquamarine blue with a drop or two of black and violet to create a
nice Blue Wedgewoodlike base color and add your base scent (Cool Citrus Basil).
Set for a few hours and pop out!
The Above Crescent Moon mold was Designed and Crafted by Heavy Duty Soap Molds
and can be purchased directly from Bramble
Berry. End ResultsEarlier I mentioned using sculpting
tools to clean up any overflow, there is no soap I do which requires this
process more than the Crescent Moon. Ironically enough it's also the hardest soap
to mess up. No two will look alike and that's ok, 'cause that's how cloud
cover is. Set the Milky Way mold slightly on its side so that the crescent moon
face is closest to your work surface. Pour white gardenia thinly into the
mold so it pools up mostly behind the moon (leaving a thin layer over the remainder
of the bar). Let set and harden, then begin to shave away at everything but the
moonface. Hold the mold up to the light to make sure you're not taking too
much away and that you'll be left with some cloud cover but also some clearings
so when you pour in your blackish blue stargazer lily base it will look like the
night sky. Make Your Own at Home!
Now you can make your own
soaps at home with our Soap Making Kits &
Tools. Our Soapmaking Kits contain
the very same ingredients as go into our own hand made PJ Soaps and the Soapmaking
Tools are the very same essential tools I use every single day in the crafting
of PJ Soaps. 
The Above Wedding Mold was designed by and for PJ Soaps and was crafted and manufactured
by Susan Nosacka of Precision
Craft. The finished soaps can be custom ordered directly from PJ
Soaps at www.pjsoaps.com. Years
in the MakingSince I began dreaming of turning my soap hobby into a business
I have wanted to create soaps that represent everyone equally. Gandhi once said
"Be the change you want to see in the world." I've just taken
that one step further to "Cultivate the change you want to see in the world."
And hey, I'm the boss, I get to make these decisions! The Bride
& Groom Soap is but the first in a series of three wedding soaps designed
by PJ Soaps. The other two, Bride & Bride and
Groom and Groom are here now! Sincerely,
PJ
CEO, PJ Soaps
info@pjsoaps.com
www.pjsoaps.com | 
